GameCube Component worth it?
 

GameCube Component worth it?

 
GameCube RGB SCART with LM1881
 

GameCube RGB SCART with LM1881

 
My first GameCube!
 

My first GameCube!

 

Retrogamingcables GameCube PACKAPUNCH PRO

**** UPDATE AT BOTTOM! ****


Wow! What a difference in quality compared to the original Composite RCA AV Cables you get bundled with the GameCube and to a “supposedly” good RGB Scart Cable. Clean colorful areas, no distorted or jumping lines within solid colors, just a premium feel to the graphics both on LCD and CRT. The cable itself comes in a neat RetroGamingCables printed brown box, well packaged as you can see below.

GameCube_PackaPunch_PRO

GameCube_PackaPunch_PRO2

GameCube_PackaPunch_PRO3

After waiting a week or more for the pre-order to be opened again so i could finally land an order and then an additional circa 2 weeks for the cable to be manufactured and shipped from the UK to my mailbox. Like a kid on Christmas i ran down and got the package, got myself stacked with some premium Boylan Cane Cola, the best cola there is and a dosa Knox White snus to enjoy a day full of gaming in Full RGB! 😀

GameCube_RGB_Evening

Finally i can enjoy playing my games with a proper premium picture quality – so i thought! Something is broken … 😥

When i first had the cables plugged into my trusty and loved LG Scarlet 47″ LCD model 47LG6000 and started Mario Kart Double Dash!! in Pal 60 mode i noticed that the screen started to jump from left to right at the start screen. I rebooted and it seemed to work fine, i was amazed by how good everything looked, no distorted lines or strange artifacts, just the very best quality I’ve experienced from the GameCube, and since i don’t own the original component cables or any GCVideo HDMI Mod nor GCVideo HDMI Plug, this is the very best I’ve laid my eyes on and would be very content with. But after playing the first track on to the second track the screen started jumping left to right and continued doing so until i either restarted the TV or changed the AV Input to another and back to the RGB Scart Input. Sometimes i had to restart the cube itself for it to stop. And then there would be these awful distortions of the sound, like changing channels or staying in between radio channels with the crackling sound coming and going, up and down in volumes or just being there all the time. You can see for yourself in the YouTube video below and here’s a link to the original video.

 

So, i started to do a thorough investigation on what might lie behind this. At the present i own 4 GameCubes with different configurations.

  • 2x Original GameCubes
  • 1x GameCube with Xeno GC
  • 1x Gamecube with QooB SX

4Cubes

I had them all connected with the PACKAPUNCH PRO cable to three different TV’s.

  • LCD LG Scarlet 47″ (47LG6000)
  • LCD Samsung 24″ (P2470HD)
  • CRT 27″ Bang & Olufsen MX6000

With the two original GameCubes and the one with Xeno GC, I experience the same jumping picture, left to right on both of the LCD TV’s when on PAL60. The audio static was pretty much the same on both modes.

With the QooB SX the picture wasn’t complete, it had borders and the colors was quite washed out. Audio remained the same with the static.

With the CRT Bang & Olufsen MX6000 the picture remained stable but the audio static was just horrible.

 

I have contacted Retrogamingcables, and I gave them a detailed description as i have written here but i didn’t get much response of what the problem could be more than to send back the cable to them for a new one. I really do thank them for the great work they put into what otherwise seems to be really good quality RGB cables. Just my typical luck ending up with a defective one. It seems quite unlikely that it would be anything but the cable to be faulty. Unless the PACKAPUNCH PRO cable somehow is incompatible with my TV’s… Sucks to have to send it back, It’s quite a pricey piece of cable (£52.68) otherwise I’d take it apart to do some measurements myself, and the return shipping is quite costly too since.. And now I’m stuck with the original AV cables or the even suckier cheap RGB Cable 😥

Anyways, during my testings I decided to do some comparing between the cables. Here are some footage taken with my PIONEER DVR-LX60D. Tried uploading it but YouTube’s compression pretty much killed the difference, and believe me the difference is HUGE in real life. But if you decide to download the video, check the larger areas for flickering and in the title text.

PACKAPUNCH PRO on the left next to the cheap RGB Cable to the right.

Download

 

Hopefully I’ll get a replacement cable within a month, I’ll post an update if the issue has been resolved. Thanks for reading! ^_^

 

UPDATE! Built my own GameCube RGB Cable with Sync Stripper that works great! 🙂

UPDATE 2! I’ve gotten response from Robert over at RetroGamingCables and they’ve been very helpful and straightforward with how they’ve wired their cable with the Sync-Stripper LM1881. It seems that they have an 470 ohm’s resistor like this: MultiAV pin 9 (with 75 ohm resistor to ground) —> LM1881 –> 470 ohm resistor –> SCART pin 20.

I’m not using the 470 ohm’s resistor and i believe that’s why their “GameCube PACKAPUNCH PRO RGB SCART CABLE” aren’t working properly with inputting the cable directly to the SCART socket of an LCD HDTV. Perhaps this is something that’s needed when connected to a Framemeister or other scaling equipment, i don’t know. But from what i understand, they have a Framemeister, but don’t use or test their cables with it.

We have two CRT’s which have SCART inputs. One is a Philips and the other a Samsung. Not sure on the model numbers, but I can check on monday. We also have a Framemeister and an OSSC, but we don’t normally test cables on these devices.

As for the 470 ohm’s resistor, this is a quote from RetroRGB.com

75 Ohm csync output

Please note that this guide shows you how to build the sync stripper circuit;  It does NOT talk about use case scenarios.  If you’re plugging this into a display or video processor (such as the Framemeister) then you’ll need to add one 470 ohm, 1/4 watt resistor to attenuate the output to 75 ohm video standards.  Many RGB monitors accept a wide variety of sync signals, including the TTL sync that this circuit outputs.  If you’d like to be safe, just add the extra resistor;  It’s literally as easy as just soldering it to the output pin.

Here’s a link to their page about the LM1881 sync stripper. A generally very great informative site that’s truly recommended to browse through if you need good answers to obtaining the very best image quality from your video-game consoles!

Conclusion, at least in my case: Don’t use the 470 Ohm’s resistor!

 

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