I bought a GameCube for about 10€ not long ago, planning on using it as my TestCube. So I decided I’d give it a go with installing a Xeno GC modchip. Checked some videos and images, read on some forums, some said the solder points were easy to mess up, some said it was a piece of cake, but i opted to go with wires so that i could easily remove it needed to.
I do admire my choice of pink cables! With cables or direct soldered, as long as it works as intended that’s all that matters.
Used this image for reference.
Tweaked the potentiometer to about 195 ohm’s from 450 ohm’s so that the GameCube laser would read the DVD-R media easier. I tried TDK and Sony branded discs, TDK wouldn’t read but the sony would so i stuck with this number. From what i understand there isn’t really a magic number, the original value of the pot can range in between 250-700 ohm’s. Reading up on the topic, if lower values can potentially damage or fry the laser is said to be an urban legend according to emu_kidid, quoting:
It’s an urban legend because there’s a 150ohm resistor in line to protect it after the potentiometer. So if you set it to 0 on the pot, it’s really 150ohm internally. I’d go to 75 if it’s going to read them more easily, thus less wear and tear. I remember the XenoGC guy telling me he ran his laser at 0ohm on the potentiometer and was able to use DVD-RW
Link to the post and a PDF backup. My next project with this Cube was to add controller port LED’s and desolder the original GameCube status led and redirect the Xeno GC LED’s and use as status LED’s for indicating a successfully boot of the Xeno GC. The choice of colors was white when injecting the code and blue as idle. Thanks for reading! ^_^